How to Shingle a Shed Roof
How to Shingle a Shed Roof
Shingling a shed roof is the ideal entry-level complete roofing project for homeowners. A typical 10-by-12-foot shed is small enough to be manageable, low enough to be relatively safe, and simple enough in geometry -- usually a single gable or mono-slope -- to teach you every fundamental roofing skill. Once you have shingled a shed, you will have the knowledge and confidence to handle shingle repairs on your house or tackle larger projects.
Materials List
Gather everything before you start. Running to the hardware store mid-project wastes daylight and breaks your momentum.
Roofing materials:
- 3-tab or architectural shingles -- approximately 3 to 4 bundles for a 10x12 shed (3 bundles per square, where 1 square equals 100 sq ft). See Asphalt Shingles for a comparison of shingle types and How to Calculate Roofing Materials for quantity math.
- Roofing felt (15 lb) or synthetic underlayment -- 1 roll covers roughly 400 sq ft. See Roof Underlayment Guide for material options.
- Drip edge -- enough to cover all eaves and rakes. See How to Install a Drip Edge.
- Starter strip shingles -- pre-made or cut from standard shingles (reversed, adhesive strip at edge)
- Ridge cap shingles -- pre-cut or cut from 3-tab shingles. See How to Install Ridge Cap Shingles.
- Roofing nails -- 1.25-inch galvanized, approximately 2 lbs for a shed
Tools:
- Hammer or pneumatic roofing nail gun
- Chalk line and chalk
- Tape measure
- Utility knife with extra blades
- Tin snips (for cutting drip edge)
- Straight edge or carpenter's square
- Pry bar (if removing old shingles)
See Roofing Tools Every Homeowner Should Have for a complete tool overview.
Estimated cost: $200 to $500 depending on shingle quality and whether you already own tools.
Step 1: Prepare the Roof Deck
If re-roofing, strip old shingles down to the Roof Deck. Inspect the plywood or OSB for rot, soft spots, or damage. Replace any compromised sections -- even a small soft area will telegraph through new shingles and shorten their life. Drive any protruding nails flush or pull them.
For new construction, ensure the decking is properly fastened, with panels staggered and gaps of 1/8 inch for expansion.
Step 2: Install Drip Edge on Eaves
Nail drip edge along the eave edges first (the lower horizontal edges). Drip edge keeps water from wicking back under the decking and directs runoff into the gutter or away from the fascia. Overlap pieces by 2 inches and nail every 12 inches. See How to Install a Drip Edge for detailed technique.
Step 3: Lay Underlayment
Roll out your roofing felt or synthetic underlayment horizontally, starting at the eave and working upward toward the ridge.
- Overlap horizontal seams by 2 inches minimum
- Overlap vertical (end) seams by 6 inches
- Staple or cap-nail the underlayment to hold it in place
- Keep it wrinkle-free -- wrinkles telegraph through shingles
The underlayment is your secondary water barrier. If a shingle tab lifts in a storm, the underlayment prevents water from reaching the deck. See Roof Underlayment Guide for more on material selection.
Step 4: Install Drip Edge on Rakes
Now install drip edge along the rake edges (the sloped sides). The rake drip edge goes on top of the underlayment, while the eave drip edge goes under it. This layering ensures water always flows outward. This is a common mistake -- getting it backward lets water wick under the underlayment.
Step 5: Snap Chalk Lines
Chalk lines keep your shingle courses straight and properly spaced. This is the difference between a professional-looking job and a wavy mess.
- Measure up from the eave edge and snap a line at 5 inches for the first course (this is the standard exposure for 3-tab shingles)
- Continue snapping lines every 5 inches up the roof
- Also snap a vertical center line and use it to ensure your offset pattern stays consistent
The exposure is the visible portion of each shingle. For standard 3-tab shingles, the exposure is 5 inches. For architectural shingles, follow the manufacturer's specifications, typically 5 to 5-5/8 inches.
Step 6: Install Starter Strip
The starter strip is the critical first layer. It provides the adhesive seal under the tabs of the first visible course and ensures full shingle coverage at the eave.
- Use pre-made starter strip shingles, or flip a standard shingle upside down so the adhesive strip faces the eave edge
- Overhang the drip edge by 1/4 to 3/8 inch on both the eave and the rake
- Nail the starter strip in place
Step 7: Install First Course of Shingles
Lay the first full shingle directly on top of the starter strip, aligning it with your chalk line. The tab slots of the first course should not align with the starter strip edge -- offset them by at least 6 inches.
Nail pattern:
- 3-tab shingles: 4 nails per shingle, placed just above the cutout slots, about 1 inch above the exposure line
- Architectural shingles: 4 to 6 nails per shingle, following the manufacturer's nailing line (usually indicated by a printed or embossed guide)
- In high-wind areas, use 6 nails per shingle regardless of type
Drive nails flush -- not sunk into the shingle, not proud of the surface. Both errors compromise the seal.
Step 8: Work Up the Roof in Offset Courses
Each subsequent course offsets from the one below it to prevent water from following cutout lines. The standard offset pattern for 3-tab shingles is a 6-inch stagger -- each row starts 6 inches shorter than the row below.
- Second course: start with a shingle cut to 30 inches (removing one half-tab)
- Third course: start with a shingle cut to 24 inches
- Fourth course: start with a shingle cut to 18 inches
- Fifth course: start with a shingle cut to 12 inches
- Sixth course: start with a shingle cut to 6 inches
- Seventh course: start with a full shingle again and repeat the pattern
For architectural shingles, follow the manufacturer's recommended offset, which varies by product. The random appearance is partly by design.
Keep checking your chalk lines. If courses start to drift, the error compounds and becomes visible from the ground. Straighten any course that is more than 1/4 inch off the chalk line.
Step 9: Trim at Rakes
At the rake edges, let shingles overhang the drip edge by the same 1/4 to 3/8 inch as the starter strip. Cut with a utility knife using a straight edge. Score the back of the shingle and snap it for a clean line.
Step 10: Install Ridge Cap
The ridge is where two slopes meet at the peak. This final weatherproofing step is critical. See How to Install Ridge Cap Shingles for full details.
- Use pre-cut ridge cap shingles or cut 3-tab shingles into thirds at the cutout lines
- Start at the end opposite the prevailing wind
- Bend each piece over the ridge and nail with two nails, one on each side
- Overlap each piece 5 to 6 inches
- Seal the last exposed nail heads with roofing sealant
Time Estimate
A typical 10-by-12-foot shed takes 4 to 8 hours to shingle, assuming the deck is already in place. A first-timer will be closer to 8 hours; experienced DIYers with a nail gun may finish in 4. Breaking the project into two half-days is perfectly reasonable.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the starter strip -- the first course of shingles will lack adhesive bond and blow off in wind
- Nailing too high or too low -- high nails miss the overlap zone and leave shingles loose; low nails sit in the exposure area and are visible
- Ignoring the offset pattern -- aligned cutouts create a direct water path to the deck
- Working in extreme cold -- shingles crack below about 40 degrees Fahrenheit; sealant strips will not activate without heat
- Working in extreme heat -- shingles scuff easily when hot; walk gently and avoid dragging tools
