How to Apply Emergency Roof Tarp

How to Apply Emergency Roof Tarp

Blue tarp properly secured over storm-damaged section of residential roof

When a storm tears away shingles, a falling branch punctures the roof deck, or a leak appears and you are waiting for a contractor, an emergency roof tarp is the fastest way to stop water from entering your home. Tarping is a temporary measure -- not a permanent repair -- but it can prevent thousands of dollars in interior water damage when done correctly.

Estimated time: 1-2 hours (with a helper)

Estimated cost: $50-$150 DIY vs $300-$800 professional emergency tarping

When to Tarp

Close-up of 2x4 lumber used to anchor emergency roof tarp by wrapping and screwing through

• Active leak with missing or broken shingles
• Visible holes or punctures in the deck
• Storm damage while waiting for a contractor (wait times after major storms can be weeks)
• Damaged flashing that cannot be immediately repaired
• Temporary protection during a phased roofing project

When NOT to Tarp Yourself

• During active storms, rain, or winds above 15 mph
• On steep roofs (8:12 pitch or greater) -- see How to Measure Roof Pitch
• On roofs two or more stories high
• If you lack a helper -- never tarp a roof alone
• If you cannot safely access the roof ridge or upper edge of the damaged area
• If you have any medical condition affected by heights or physical exertion

In these situations, call a professional emergency roofing service. See When to DIY vs When to Call a Roofer.

What You'll Need

Tools

• Extension ladder (rated for your weight plus materials)
• Cordless drill/driver with screwdriver bit
• Utility knife or heavy scissors
• Tape measure
• Rope or heavy-duty bungee cords (as backup restraint)

Materials

• Heavy-duty poly tarp -- minimum 6 mil thickness, preferably 10-12 mil. Standard blue tarps are only 5 mil and degrade within weeks. Invest in a white or silver heavy-duty tarp rated for UV exposure. Size the tarp to extend at least 4 feet beyond the damaged area on all sides.
• 2x4 lumber -- cut to the width of the tarp. You need at least three pieces: one for the top anchor, one for the bottom anchor, and extras for sides in high-wind areas.
• Wood screws -- 3-inch deck screws or similar. These anchor the 2x4 boards to the roof deck.
• Sandbags or concrete blocks (optional, for flat or low-slope roofs where screwing is not ideal)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Diagram showing how far an emergency roof tarp should extend beyond the damaged area

Step 1: Assess the Damage From the Ground

Before climbing the roof, survey the damage from the ground with binoculars. Identify the full extent of the damaged area. Photograph everything for insurance documentation. Note the approximate dimensions so you can select the right tarp size.

Step 2: Select and Prepare the Tarp

Choose a tarp that extends at least 4 feet beyond the damaged area on every side. If the damage is near the ridge, the tarp should wrap over the ridge to the other side by at least 3 feet to prevent water from running under the top edge. Unfold and lay out the tarp on the ground. If it needs trimming, cut it with a utility knife before going on the roof.

Step 3: Prepare the Anchor Boards

Cut 2x4 lumber to match the width of the tarp. You need a minimum of two boards -- one for the top edge and one for the bottom edge. For wider tarps or high-wind areas, prepare additional boards for the sides. Pre-drill screw holes every 16 inches along each board to speed up installation on the roof.

Step 4: Access the Roof Safely

Set up your ladder following all safety protocols in the Roof Safety Guide for Homeowners. Maintain three points of contact while climbing. Have your helper hand materials up to you -- do not carry bulky items up the ladder. Wear rubber-soled shoes and use a safety harness attached to a secure anchor.

Step 5: Position the Tarp

Working with your helper, unroll the tarp over the damaged area. Position it so that it extends at least 4 feet past the damage on all sides. If the damage is near the ridge, drape the tarp over the ridge and down the opposite slope at least 3 feet. Smooth out wrinkles -- folds and pockets trap water and create wind-catch points.

Step 6: Anchor the Top Edge

This is the most critical anchor point because water flows downhill. Lay a 2x4 board along the top edge of the tarp, wrapping the tarp edge over the board. Place the board on the roof surface with the tarp sandwiched between the board and the roof. Drive 3-inch screws through the board, through the tarp, and into the roof deck at 16-inch intervals.

Important: Screw into the roof deck (the plywood or OSB sheathing), not through shingles into empty space. The screws need solid wood to hold against wind. These holes will need to be sealed during permanent repair.

Step 7: Stretch and Anchor the Bottom Edge

Pull the tarp taut toward the bottom edge. Wrap the bottom edge around a second 2x4 board, just as you did at the top. Screw this board down into the roof deck. The tarp must be tight -- a loose tarp flaps in wind, pulls free, and can cause additional damage to surrounding shingles.

If the bottom edge extends past the eave, wrap the tarp around the board and let the board hang just below the eave line, acting as a weight. Alternatively, the board can rest in the gutter if the gutter is sturdy enough.

Step 8: Secure the Side Edges

For storms and high-wind areas, anchor the side edges with additional 2x4 boards screwed down as you did for the top and bottom. For moderate conditions, you can fold the side edges under and weigh them down with sandbags or additional boards laid on top without screwing.

Step 9: Reinforce Against Wind

After all edges are anchored:

• Run a rope over the tarp from one eave to the other, tying it to secure anchor points on each side of the house. This adds a second line of defense against wind uplift.
• Check that no corners or edges are loose.
• Verify the tarp is taut across its entire surface with no pools, sags, or billowing sections.

Step 10: Inspect After the Next Rain

After the first rainfall, check inside the attic and the rooms below for any signs of continued leaking. Check the tarp exterior for pooling water, shifted boards, or loose edges. Make adjustments as needed.

Important Limitations

• 90 days maximum. A tarp is an emergency measure, not a repair. Most tarps degrade within 30-90 days depending on UV exposure and weather. Plan for permanent repair as soon as possible. See Roof Repair vs Replacement.
• Insurance documentation. Tarping is considered mitigation -- protecting your property from further damage. Most homeowner's insurance policies expect you to take reasonable steps to prevent additional damage. Keep receipts for all materials purchased.
• Screw holes need repair. Every screw you drive into the deck creates a penetration that must be sealed during permanent repair. Minimize the number of screws while still achieving a secure hold.
• Re-inspect after every major wind event. High winds can shift even well-anchored tarps.

Flat Roof Tarping

Flat or low-slope roofs are easier and safer to tarp but require different anchoring. Because you cannot rely on gravity to keep water flowing off the tarp, pooling is the main concern:

• Use sandbags or concrete blocks instead of screws to hold down edges
• Create a slight slope in the tarp toward a drain or roof edge
• Ensure the tarp extends into the drainage path so water runs off rather than pooling

See How to Apply Roof Coating to a Flat Roof for permanent flat roof protection options.

See Also

• DIY Roofing Guide
• Roof Safety Guide for Homeowners
• Signs of Roof Damage After a Storm
• Roofing Insurance Claims and Warranties
• How to Find and Fix Roof Leaks
• Roof Repair Costs
• When to DIY vs When to Call a Roofer
• Common Roof Problems