How to Apply Emergency Roof Tarp

Blue tarp properly secured over storm-damaged section of residential roof

An emergency roof tarp is a heavy plastic sheet fastened over a damaged section of roof to keep rain out until a permanent repair can be made. The tarp runs from above the damage (ideally over the ridge) to below it. Its edges are wrapped around 2x4 boards that are screwed through to the roof deck, so wind cannot get underneath. Tarp only on a dry roof in calm weather, with a helper and a safe way up. If the roof is steep, high or badly damaged, hire a professional. A tarp is a stopgap, not a repair.

Estimated time: 1-2 hours (with a helper)

Estimated cost: varies by region, tarp size and roof access. Materials are usually modest, and professional emergency tarping costs more. Get a written quote and keep all receipts for your insurer.

⚠️ Warning: NEVER attempt to tarp a roof during an active storm. Wait until the rain has stopped, thunder has ended and the wind is calm. There is no safe place outdoors while a thunderstorm is nearby. Wet roofs are extremely slippery, and wind turns a tarp into a sail that can pull you off the roof. If water is pouring in during a storm, use buckets inside and wait for safe conditions. Read the Roof Safety Guide for Homeowners before going on any roof.

Hiring a pro? Browse our researched, BBB-checked emergency roof repair contractors by city — see how we rank.

When to Tarp

Close-up of 2x4 lumber used to anchor emergency roof tarp by wrapping and screwing through

• Active leak with missing or broken shingles
• Visible holes or punctures in the deck
• Storm damage while waiting for a contractor or adjuster (waits after major storms can be long)
• Damaged flashing that cannot be immediately repaired
• Temporary protection during a phased roofing project

Insurers expect you to take reasonable steps to protect your property from further damage after a loss, and tarping is the most common example on a roof. Photograph the damage before covering it.

When NOT to Tarp Yourself

Falls are the leading cause of death in construction, and professional roofers are required to use fall protection. Do not do this job yourself:

• During storms, rain, lightning, or wind
• On steep roofs. OSHA classes any slope greater than 4 in 12 as a "steep roof" for workers. See How to Measure Roof Pitch and Roof Pitch
• On roofs two or more storeys high
• If you lack a helper. Never tarp a roof alone
• If the roof deck is sagging, burned, or has large holes you might step through
• If power lines run near the damaged area or the path of your ladder (see below)
• If you cannot safely reach the ridge or the upper edge of the damaged area
• If you have any medical condition affected by heights or physical exertion

In these situations, call a professional emergency roofing service. See When to DIY vs When to Call a Roofer.

What You'll Need

Tools

• Extension ladder with a duty rating that covers your weight plus tools and materials. Use fibreglass or wood rather than metal if there are any overhead lines nearby
• Cordless drill/driver with screwdriver bit
• Utility knife or heavy scissors
• Tape measure
• Rope for hauling materials up, and for extra restraint over the tarp

Materials

• Heavy-duty poly tarp: choose the heaviest, UV-resistant, reinforced tarp you can find. Light "utility" tarps tear and break down quickly in sun and wind. Size it to extend several feet beyond the damaged area on every side.
• 2x4 lumber: cut to the width of the tarp. You need at least two pieces (top and bottom anchors), plus extras for the sides in windy areas.
• Wood screws: exterior deck screws long enough to pass through the 2x4, the tarp and the shingles into the roof deck.
• Sandbags (optional, for flat or low-slope roofs where screwing is not ideal)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Diagram showing how far an emergency roof tarp should extend beyond the damaged area

Step 1: Assess the Damage From the Ground

Before anyone climbs, survey the damage from the ground with binoculars. Identify the full extent of the damaged area. Photograph everything for insurance documentation. Note the approximate dimensions so you can select the right tarp size. Look up for power lines, including the service line to the house, and plan the ladder position well away from them.

Step 2: Select and Prepare the Tarp

Choose a tarp that extends well beyond the damaged area on every side. Several feet of overlap is a common rule of thumb. If the damage is anywhere near the ridge, the tarp should go over the ridge and down the other side so water cannot run under the top edge. Unfold and lay out the tarp on the ground. If it needs trimming, cut it with a utility knife before going up.

Step 3: Prepare the Anchor Boards

Cut 2x4 lumber to match the width of the tarp. You need at least two boards, one for the top edge and one for the bottom edge. For wider tarps or windy areas, prepare additional boards for the sides. Pre-drilling screw holes on the ground cuts down the time spent on the roof.

Step 4: Access the Roof Safely

Set up the ladder following the Roof Safety Guide for Homeowners and these basic rules from OSHA and the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety:

• Keep the ladder and everything you carry at least 10 feet (3 m) from power lines.
• Set the feet on firm, level ground, with the base about one-quarter of the working length out from the wall (the 4-to-1 rule).
• Extend the ladder at least 3 feet (1 m) above the roof edge, and tie it off at the top if you can.
• Keep three points of contact while climbing, and face the ladder.
• Do not carry the tarp or lumber up the ladder. Climb up first and have your helper send materials up on a rope.
• Wear soft-soled shoes with good grip.

A safety harness only protects you if it is connected to a roof anchor installed to carry fall-arrest loads. OSHA requires such anchors to support at least 5,000 pounds per person. A harness tied to a vent pipe, chimney or gutter is not fall protection. If you do not have a proper anchor, hire a professional.

Step 5: Position the Tarp

Working with your helper, unroll the tarp over the damaged area so it extends well past the damage on all sides. If the damage is near the ridge, drape the tarp over the ridge and down the opposite slope. Smooth out wrinkles, because folds and pockets trap water and give the wind something to catch. Stay on sound roof surfaces and keep away from the eave edge.

Step 6: Anchor the Top Edge

This is the most important anchor, because water flows downhill. Wrap the top edge of the tarp around a 2x4 and lay the board on the roof with the tarp sandwiched underneath. Drive screws through the board and tarp into the roof deck at regular intervals along its length.

Important: Screw into the roof deck (the plywood or OSB sheathing), not just into shingles. The screws need solid wood to hold against wind. Every hole will need to be sealed during the permanent repair.

Step 7: Stretch and Anchor the Bottom Edge

Pull the tarp taut toward the bottom edge. Wrap the bottom edge around a second 2x4, as you did at the top, and screw it down into the roof deck. The tarp must be tight. A loose tarp flaps in wind, pulls free, and can damage surrounding shingles.

If the bottom edge extends past the eave, wrap the tarp around the board and let the board hang just below the eave line as a weight. Do not lean out over the eave to do this. Work from the ladder or leave it to a professional.

Step 8: Secure the Side Edges

In windy areas, anchor the side edges with additional 2x4 boards screwed down in the same way. In calmer conditions, you can fold the side edges under and hold them with boards laid on top.

Step 9: Reinforce Against Wind

After all edges are anchored:

• Optionally, run a rope over the tarp from one side to the other and tie it to solid anchor points, as a second line of defence against wind uplift.
• Check that no corners or edges are loose.
• Make sure the tarp is taut across its entire surface with no pools, sags, or billowing sections.

Step 10: Inspect After the Next Rain

After the first rainfall, check the attic and the rooms below for any signs of continued leaking. From the ground, look for pooling water, shifted boards, or loose edges on the tarp. Only go back up to adjust it when conditions are safe again.

Important Limitations

• Weeks, not months. A tarp is an emergency measure, not a repair. Sun and wind break tarps down, so plan for permanent repair as soon as possible. See Roof Repair vs Replacement.
• Insurance documentation. Tarping counts as mitigation, which means protecting your property from further damage. Most homeowner's insurance policies expect it, and receipts for temporary repairs can often be submitted for reimbursement. Payments for temporary repairs come out of your total settlement, so avoid paying a large sum for temporary work. Don't make extensive permanent repairs until the adjuster has assessed the damage.
• Screw holes need repair. Every screw driven into the deck is a penetration that must be sealed during the permanent repair. Use as few screws as you can while still getting a secure hold.
• Re-inspect after every major wind event. High winds can shift even well-anchored tarps.

Flat Roof Tarping

Flat or low-slope roofs are easier to work on, but they still need care. Stay well back from unguarded edges and skylights. Anchoring is also different: gravity does not carry water off the tarp, so pooling is the main concern.

• Use sandbags instead of screws to hold down edges
• Create a slight slope in the tarp toward a drain or roof edge
• Ensure the tarp extends into the drainage path so water runs off rather than pooling

See How to Apply Roof Coating to a Flat Roof for permanent flat roof protection options.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should you tarp a roof instead of repairing it?

Tarp as a temporary emergency measure when a leak threatens your home and a permanent repair cannot be done right away, for example after a storm or while waiting for a contractor or insurance adjuster. Tarp only once the weather has cleared and the roof is dry.

How long does an emergency roof tarp last?

Plan in weeks, not months. Sun, wind and weather break tarps down, and a heavier, UV-resistant tarp lasts longer than a light utility tarp. Check it after every storm and arrange a permanent repair as soon as possible.

Is it safe to tarp a roof yourself?

Only on a dry, low-slope, single-storey roof, in calm weather, with a helper, a properly set-up ladder and no nearby power lines. On steep, high or badly damaged roofs, call a professional roofer or emergency tarping service.

Will insurance pay for tarping?

Usually it counts as reasonable mitigation. Keep receipts and photos, and remember that what you spend on temporary repairs comes out of the overall settlement.

How do you secure a tarp on a roof?

Run the tarp from over the ridge down past the damaged area. Wrap the top and bottom edges around 2x4 boards and screw the boards through the tarp into the roof deck. Add side boards so wind cannot get underneath, and avoid loose, flapping edges.

See Also

• DIY Roofing Guide
• Roof Safety Guide for Homeowners
• Emergency Roof Repair What to Do Right Now
• Signs of Roof Damage After a Storm
• Roofing Insurance Claims and Warranties
• How to Find and Fix Roof Leaks
• Roof Repair Costs
• When to DIY vs When to Call a Roofer
• Common Roof Problems